Midge Fishing

… from Jim Jackman
The Key to successfully target Midge feeders is to have a basic understanding of their life cycle. Once this is understood then the fly can be presented to where the fish are feeding and of course where they can see the fly.

Midge season in mainly from early spring to early summer. Often a secondary season will occur in autumn. It all depends on the prevailing climate and the altitude of the lake. The surface water temperature is the PRIME driver of a midge’s life cycle. They begin their process to maturity at about 10oC and taper off at about 19oC. So depending on the climate and altitude they can hatch all year round.

The midge begins its life as an egg and hatches into the Larvae form, commonly referred to as a bloodworm, which are mostly red in colour. However they can be green or brown. The bloodworm lives at the bottom of the lake in the silt, and can stay in the larvae stage for up to two years. It is worth noting they can be found at all depths and not just the shallow margins as is usually believed.

So, let’s talk about targeting the midge at the larvae stage. The first problem to overcome is to find a way of getting the fly to where they are, given it could be anywhere from 5 to 50 ft. Targeting bloodworm feeders is mostly a daytime activity.

#1 A floating line with a long leader

I like to have 20 cents each way here so have a red buzzer on the point and a black/olive buzzer on the dropper about 5 ft above the point.

#2 The most efficient way in my view is to use indicators.

The advantage here is that the fly can be left in the feeding zone for extended periods, allowing the fish time to find the fly. The disadvantage with indicators is that the depth set is usually restricted by the length of the rod. I found the answer to this problem in Canada, watching footage by Phil Rowley. He has developed a quick release indicator that can be fished way down to 20 ft. This enables fish to be targeted in deeper water where they are unlikely to spook, especially on a bright sunny day.

Here is a link explaining how they work – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nt8XwFfOcXE

The next stage is the Pupae stage. This is when the midge is very vulnerable. The pupae hatch near the bottom from the larvae and rise very slowly to the surface in a vertical position with the head up. It uses body gases to help it emerge and this gives the pupae the appearance of having silver bands on the body. During a hatch the vast majority of the midge consumed by trout are in the pupae stage, even though the surface activity may look frantic.

#1 Fish a double pupae rig very slowly, with a long leader, and lift from time to time to imitate a rising insect.
#2 Use a pupa set about 12 -14 inches under a dry fly.
#3 Employ a washing line. Tie the pupa above the dry instead of beneath it.

Finally, the adult stage. I prefer to use a dry fly, not because it is the most productive method (it’s not), but because it’s the most fun especially when they are balling up. Something like a Griffths Gnat tied on a size 12 hook works well. If the rise forms involve a single insect then go for something smaller. A Red Tag is a fly that is often overlooked because it is often regarded as yesterday’s fly. However I would not go midge fishing without one.

Fly selection is not the prime concern when targeting Midge feeders There are a plethora of buzzers and pupae and dry flies available, and they all work. Presentation, size and profile are key considerations. If it’s possible, take a look at the shucks to get an idea of the dimensions of the insect. Sometimes it pays to match the size of the natural, especially in the early stages of a hatch. However when the hatch really intensifies, the number of insects emerging through the water column is staggering and your fly is like a snow flake in a blizzard. Try using a team of pupae tied on a straight shank hook stripped a little quicker, in this instance to get their attention, because a curved hook will tend to spin when moved quickly. Pause in between strips to present a static fly.

Bloodworm fishing and the methods employed are fairly consistent and reliable. However fishing an evening hatch is anything but, and can tax the patience of a saint. If that which worked last night isn’t producing, then welcome to the joys of a midge hatch. I think the biggest mistake in this scenario is to keep casting to rising fish. One method is to put a dry fly with a suspended pupa out there in the feeding zone, giving it a little tweak from time to time, and wait for a fish to find it.

Another method to employ is to fish a highly buoyant dry and create a wake or disturbance. Below is a link to a video showing a Griffiths variation that can produce good results when the going gets tough during the peak of the hatch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RsRCPkKpp0

In summary, remember the three golden rules of fly fishing:

Find the food and find the fish;
Put the fly where the fish can see it without spooking it;
And finally, whatever happens … just remember how many kilometres you are from your lawn mower.